This site welcomes its fanatics on the beauty and significance of the kente cloth in Ghana as well its pride and prestige that comes with it. Enthusiasts of the kente cloth have always loved the colors, patterns and textures, its inerrant boldness and pride. People who admire culture the more can share their knowledge on various cloths in related topics with its cultural admiration worldwide. The blog purposes on kente cloth and its impact on society.
The framework of an Ashanti loom contains thirteen pieces, named as follows:
The four posts, 1,2,3,4, called Kofi Nsa nnua ie Kofi
hand sticks, Kofi being a personal name generally implying that the
person so named was born on a Friday. The lower longitudinal support 5
and 6 are called ntoho, and the upper supports 7 and 8, which are
generally notched, are known as nsantwerewa (i.e. Small hand steps). The
cross front bar(9), over which lie the warp threads, is called oponko
dua, i.e. The horse stick; the rear cross rod (10) the ayase dua, i.e.
The belly stick (our breast beam) ; around this rod the cloth is wound.
At the end of this rod, and on the right hand of the weaver, two holes
are bored, into one of which a wooden rod (13) is inserted leading from
the cross bar (9). This enables the weaver to take a turn on the breast
beam or 'belly stick' (10), and slip the rod into one of the holes and
so prevent the pull of the web from causing this bar to revolve and thus
slacken the warp.
The procedures for general kente weaving are based on the
following; designing, yarn preparation, warping, raddling, beaming,
heddling, reeding, tie-up, and weaving.
Preparation of the yarn for warping
Yarns for kente weaving are purchased on hanks and these are wound onto
‘‘duaduwa’’ literally known as bobbins to the required yarn length by
the help of the ‘‘ɛntene nnua’’ also known as warping mill.
Warping of Yarns
Warping is the process whereby many long yarns are put together to form
the yarn that run lengthwise in a woven fabric. This is done on a
warping mill or warping board. But the most frequent and traditionally
used one is the warping mill. The next process will be to build up the
warp after securing the figures for the number of warp ends and total
number of hanks needed for the warp. According to SOURCES, initially
primitive weavers drove pegs into the ground and moved with their warp
yarns to and from these pegs till they obtained the total length and
number of ends required.
Presently, the traditional weavers of Adanwomase still practice this
system of warping which has been identified as one of the most difficult
and cumbersome task. To avoid this hectic task, different methods were
introduced. These new methods involve the use of the warping board,
warping frame, and the warping mill which assist in three different
ways. They assist to align the warp yarn in parallel formation and
support them with the characteristics crosses that every warp needs to
avoid the problems of entanglement in the warp during weaving. For
longer warps the warping mill will be very necessary. When warping, the
warp yarns are guided by one of the weaver’s hand while the other hand
turns the warping mill in both clockwise and anticlockwise directions
with the weaver remaining stationary.
Test weave
After all the processes above, various weft colours are used on the warp
to identify the appropriate colours to be used either for the plane
weave or design weaves before the actual weaving starts.
Weaving
The main weaving of the kente cloth starts after passing through the
above processes. According to Opanin Kwasi Boateng, old kente weaver of
Adanwomase, there are two types of weave. These are plane weave which
makes use of a pair of ‘‘asatia’’ heddles and the design or the double
weave which uses a pair of ‘‘asanan’’ heddles. According to him, every
apprentice or beginner must undergo the weaving of the plain weave
before the design weave.
Securing the crosses and creating chains
After the total number of warp ends has been obtained the crosses
should be properly secured before removing the warp from the warping
board.
To preserve the crosses, care should be taken in the course of
removing the warp from the warp mill. They are preserved by passing a
string through the openings created by the various pegs of the warping
mill. To remove the warp, first remove the first peg, and then pass your
right hand through the opening created. Grasp a length of warp and next
is to draw your hand through the opening made by one’s wrist.
Continue to grasp short pieces and pass your hand through the loop
till the whole warp is exhausted. At the end of the process the long
warp mill look short and handy in a form of a chain stitch. It can also
be done by trying along the length of the warp in short pieces to
prevent entanglements. After warping, it would be observed that the
weavers secure the crosses and bundles at interval along the warp
length. They continue to roll the warp length to form a ball with the
crosses forming at the end of the boa
Raddling
With the crosses still maintained, the warp threads are spread into
the dents of the raddle according to the width desired. The raddle helps
the weaver to know and obtain an approximate width of the warp to be
woven. The top of the raddle, unlike the reed is removable and when the
warp ends are placed in the dents, the top is capped on the teeth to
prevent the threads from falling off.
In traditional looms at Adanwomase, after raddling there is a heddling
through the ‘‘asanan’’ and later through the ‘‘asatia’’ before reeding;
the ends of the warp yarn are then secured with the ‘‘ayaasedua.’’
After securing the ends of the warp with the ‘‘ayaasedua,’’ the other
ends of the warp are stretched over the warp carrier or the warp roller
and then stretched further away from the loom and then secured with the
‘‘ntwesuo.’’ The ‘‘ntwesuo’’ is made up of wooden board with stones as
loads on the board. Beaming
In the case of conventional looms or the improved version of the
traditional loom, the beaming proceeds raddling. Beaming is the process
whereby the long warp is stretched taut and rolled or wound onto the
warp beam on the loom. In beaming the raddle together with the warp
threads are tied into the slay board of the loom.
The warp ends are then stretched taut by two to three persons from
the front of the loom where the weaver sits and one or two persons use
their fingers to comb or dress the threads to remove any entanglements.
The warp threads are then rolled unto the roller making sure that an
even tension from those pulling is maintained to avoid any slackness
during weaving from either the selvedge or any other part of the warp.
The warp is rolled evenly unto the warp roller and at the same time
tension is maintained. When the entire warps are almost rolled up to the
warp roller, the few inches remaining at the raddle is cut off and
loosely knotted front of the raddle. The top part of the raddle is
removed and two flat shed sticks are pushed to the back roller to
maintain the process. After all these, the warp threads are ready for
heddling.
Reeding
After heddling all the yarns are then ready to pass through
the dents of the reed. The reed is fixed in the sley and tied to make it
firm for the reeding process. With a reed hook, each heddled yarn is
threaded through each dent. In reeding, it was observed that the
selvedge of the fabric is reinforced with more warp yarns than those in
the main fabric. This is done by doubling the selvedge yarns in the
dents. When all reeding is done, the loose knots are untied and a
section of the warp is drawn.
This is divided into two halves, one in each hand, then passed
under the fly rod of the cloth beam, then over it and under the two
warp section. After reading, equal tension is applied to the warp for
easy shedding.
Tie-up
This is the tying of the treadles and lams to the heddle
frames to facilitate correct opening of the shed for weaving. A strong
cord and a switch knot or a non-slip knot should be used for the tying.
The lams and treadles have series of holes along their length and the
tie-up is done according to the design to be woven. The tie-up cords
should be of equal length to provide proper opening of the shed.
The treadles are made to hang evenly and parallel at the
same height from the ground within the easy reach of the foot to create a
very good shed.
Its renown has spread internationally, so that it is now one
of the most admired of all fabrics in many parts of the world. Its
colorfulness makes it stands out wherever. The strip-woven cloth called Kente, made by the Asante peoples of Ghana
and the Ewe peoples of Ghana and Togo, is the best known of all African
textiles.
The cloth has its origin in the former Gold Coast of West Africa as a
festive dress for special occasions – traditionally worn by men and by women as an upper and lower wrapper its existence
as spectacular apparel, however, has obscured its many other roles in
Asante and Ewe culture, especially in royal regalia. Over the past forty
years the cloth has been transformed into hats, ties, bags, shoes, and
many other accessories, including jewelry, worn and used on both sides
of the Atlantic. Individual Kente strips have found a permanent home in
the United States and are especially worn as a ‘stole’ or applied to
academic and liturgical robes.
Kente patterns have also developed a life of their own and have been
appropriated as surface designs for everything from Band-Aids and
balloons to greeting cards and book covers. Appearing in contexts both
sacred and profane, Kente has come to evoke and to celebrate a shared
cultural heritage, bridging two continents.( America and Africa) – Doran
Ross.
Kente has recently made more significant gains in the world of haute
couture, Kente remains the textile of choice for African Americans and whites on
many occasions that foreground issues of heritage and achievement. Kente
with its vivid colors enmeshed in a visually compelling geometry has
occupied a prominent role in the worlds of design, fashion, and politics
during the second half of the twentieth century. Moreover, it has been a
potent symbol in the context of many of the most important African
American ideologies of the period.
The rather frequent wearing of Kente
at special ceremonies by the first president of Ghana, Osagyefo Dr.
Kwame Nkrumah placed Kente right in the eyes of the World, also Kente’s
adornment of the walls of the United Nations general assembly auditorium
has added to its strong stature in international circles. Kente, with
all its glory, is not exempt from controversy in several interrelated
arenas. At the forefront are debates concerning the primacy of Asante
versus Ewe weaving. These involve issues of ethnic and cultural pride
and reflect as well as still-lucrative indigenous markets. While
certain clues as to its origin reside in the cloth itself, the fact is
that the most of the arguments exist in the easily manipulated realm of
oral tradition, rendering it impossible to determine definitely who
influenced whom. Despite Kente’s obscure past, the fact remains that,
the similarities between Asante and Ewe Kente, especially in central and
northern Ewe areas, are much greater than any discernible differences.
The Homes of Kente In Asante, Bonwire continues to be regarded as home
and center of Kente weaving, even though place like Adanwomase is
prominent when it comes to Kente weaving and infact recognized as a seat
for royal weavers. In Eweland, the most noticeable centers are Agbozume
and Kpetoe. The institution of two festivals to celebrate and to market
it to the World has enhanced the glory and the quest to celebrate
Kente. In 1996, the Ewe town of Kpetoe created the first Kente festival
(AGBEMEVOZA) to be followed by the creation of another one in 1998 in
Asante weaving center Bonwire. (BONWIRE KENTE FESTIVAL) Isn’t it
interesting and ironic that the most popular song composition to glorify
Kente weaving composed by Ghana’s greatest musicologist, Dr. Ephraim
Amu ( a very proud Ewe) was about the stunning weaving skills of Bonwire
weavers, and what is most amazing is that one of the most prolific and
legendarily skillful Kente weavers of Bonwire, a man called Samuel
Cofie is an Ewe man born in Anyako, another Kente weaving town in
Eweland. Cofie has been weaving Kente since 1961.
Kente, like any prominent has suffered the creation of fake ones on the
market. Anyway, my parents did well to train me to discern the
differences between Ewe and Asante Kente and of course l have the
capacity to also discern fake, replicas or imitations of Kente when l
encounter one.. Kente has been researched by many including Rattray in
1927. The Asantehene is told to have over 300,000 Kente cloths with
a whole King “ Abenasehene” in charge of storing and maintenance.
KENTE ACCESSORIES
Most Kente accessories include shoes, slippers, sandals, bags, ties, scarfs, pillow and many others including jewellery. Below are pictures of such accessories:
Kente has been in our society from time immemorial. The intrinsic pattern, colors and textures of the cloth with an inerrant boldness and pride makes the piece a unique feature.
Many a time, Kente is usually worn on special occasions like wedding
ceremonies, corporate events and end of year parties of class. Of late,
most fashion designers use the kente piece for accessories like
ear-rings, ribbons, scarfs, head gears, shoes and many others and also
for bridal decorations.
Kente cloth is usually worn for ceremonies,
festivals, and other sacred occasions. It is also given as a
gift for weddings, child naming ceremonies, graduations, and
other special events.
The icon of African cultural heritage around the world, Asante kente is identified by its dazzling, multicolored patterns of bright colors, geometric shapes and bold designs.The Asante peoples of Ghana choose kente cloths as much for their names as their
colors and patterns.
The kente cloth is primarily used as an apparel for the would-be couple yet to be joined as one at marriage ceremonies.
Most fashion designers have come up with different accessories that is used for decorations of events as well. Indeed Kente is a beautiful piece of cloth that has its own unique style.
BRIDE AND GROOM IN KENTE (picture credit: OAB PHOTOGRAPHY)